This dark and vinous rosé from the southern Rhône commands the stage with its hearty presence. Ripe red berries and fine tannin make this Tavel an ideal match for a bistro burger with fries or a charcuterie and cheese plate. In terms of food pairings, you might look to this as you usually would a quaffable rouge from nearby, but there’s a sheen and shimmer both in the glass and on the palate that sets it squarely in its own denomination. —Allyson Noman